I recently culled my closet of some dresses and blouses that I hadn’t been wearing and noticed a pattern: almost all of them didn’t fit quite right, but I had tried to overlook the puckering here or bulge there because I was in love with the colors or styles.

I’ve finally learned, though, that getting the perfect fit is essential to looking put together. A designer top that doesn’t fit right will look cheap, whereas a budget-friendly blouse that fits perfectly will look like it was literally made for you.

Since there’s a lot more to fit than whether or not you can squeeze into an item, I’ve broken it down to the essential areas to give a second look before you fall in love with that new top.

Length

Lengths vary from midriff-showing to that ambiguous ‘is it a shirt or a dress?’ length, but the most flattering length is right around the hips or just a bit lower. Longer lengths have been popular for the last few seasons with low-waisted pants, but they can make your legs look shorter.

With the reintroduction of high-waisted pants this season, you’re likely to see shorter tops. For many, it’s an awkward length; whether paired with high-waisted or lower waisted pants, they are not tummy-friendly.

Waist

The perfect fit is one that comfortably skims your shape. If you have a waist, show it off by wearing shirts that come in at the waist. While some people try to hide extra weight under baggy clothes, buying a size that’s too large will only add pounds to your look. However, so will wearing tops that are too tight. If it pulls or puckers, put it back.

Bosom

I envy my husband. He has no problem finding shirts that fit, whereas I am constantly fighting that “extra dimension” as I like to call it. Whatever size you may be, this is the place that will likely cause you the most trouble.

If you have an ample bosom, you are undoubtedly familiar with the between-button gap. While wearing a camisole underneath can protect your modesty, the gap still isn’t attractive. Look for shirts that have buttons that are placed closer together.

If you can’t find a shirt that fits around your bosom without being baggy everywhere else, get the size that fits your bosom and then have the shirt taken in at the waist by a tailor.

Empire waist tops are a great way to emphasize your bosom, especially if you have a small frame. Unfortunately, they are not easy to wear if you have more up there. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve noticed women wearing empire waist tops where the waistline actually went across their bosom! That’s a big no-no, especially if it leads to any sort of indentation. The line should go across the chest right below the bosom.

If you are of ‘junior’ age but are an early bloomer, you might have to go to the misses section to find empire waist tops that fit up top. Another place to find empire waisted tops with more room is in the maternity section; just make sure that the rest of the top doesn’t make you look like you’re expecting, unless you actually are.

If you have trouble filling out tops, make sure you have a great bra. It’s amazing what the right support and a little bit of padding can do.

Cleavage

Of course, I can’t talk about bosoms and fit without mentioning cleavage. Showing cleavage, in moderation, is a great way to add a little sex appeal. However, tops can shift around and show more than expected. Before you take those tags off that low-cut blouse, wear it around the house a bit, move your arms around, and then check to see if your bra is showing.

Shoulders

An essential (though often overlooked) place to check fit is the shoulders. The seam that runs from left to right across the top of a blouse should lay at the very top of your shoulders, not in front or in back. If the blouse has sleeves, the top of the seam where the sleeves start should lay at the very top end of the shoulders, not down the arm or up the shoulders.

Don’t forget to move your arms back and around and make sure there is enough room in the shoulders that you can move comfortably.

Armpits

Ahhh, the dreaded armpit flab. Make sure that you check your armpits before buying a shirt so that tops aren’t too tight, and avoid sleeveless tops whose armholes come in on the front since they’re frequently unflattering. Also, make sure that the armholes don’t go low enough to reveal your bra strap.

Strapless tops can give even model-thin women armpit flab, so make sure that everything fits and doesn’t slip down. Better yet, cover up with a cute sleeveless jacket for a more flattering look.

Arms

The first thing to check is whether the sleeves are too tight, even when you move your arms around. If it pinches, don’t buy it.

Next, check the length: styles should fit as described. If a “short-sleeve” shirt hangs down to your elbows, then the sleeves are too long. If a “long-sleeve” shirt fit more like a 3/4 sleeve shirt, then it is too short.

Getting the right length on long-sleeve dress shirts and jackets is essential to looking polished in a suit. When you bend your elbows, neither your shirt nor your jacket should ride up your arm. Instead, they should end at or near your wrist. Because of differences in fabric, the length with your arms down will vary. However, no sleeve should come down to your fingers.

Back

Don’t forget to check your back! This can be hard to check in a regular mirror since twisting to see your back will change the fit. Take a good look in a three-sided mirror or ask someone how it looks. A well-fitted top should lay rather flat down your back. Take a close look at the lower back and behind the shoulders.

Also, make sure that the back isn’t too tight. If you can see back flab on either side of your bra band, that’s a sign that your top and/or bra is too tight. While you’re at it, check the seams on the sides. They should also lay flat.

Keeping it all in mind

There are definitely a lot of things to keep in mind when checking the fit of a top, however with a little practice it becomes a habit and you can quickly check for the perfect fit.

As I’ve learned, spending a little time in front of the mirror before you buy will save you money that might have otherwise been spent on tops that you’ll regret buying later when you admit that they don’t truly fit.

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