My mom recently asked me why so many clothes have horizontal stripes and not vertical ones, since supposedly the former has a widening effect and the latter is slimming.

After all, all the fashion magazines and style shows keep repeating the same mantra, “Create vertical lines.”

Well, here’s the answer and how you can make it work for you.

Why lines lengthen

First off, lines work essentially the same way whether they are vertical, horizontal, or diagonal: they make things appear longer, just in different directions. Your eyes want to follow lines, and since lines pull your gaze from one spot to another, they make the space along the line seem physically longer. Therefore, vertical lines tend to make things look taller, while horizontal lines tend to make things look wider.

Notice that I didn’t say “skinnier” or “fatter”. It’s a bit more complicated than that. Looking taller will indeed make you look thinner because it changes your overall proportions. That’s why high heels are so popular.

The really tricky lines, though, are those pesky horizontals. While they do visually widen areas they’re placed on, whether they’re “fattening” or not depends on a variety of factors. In fact, horizontal lines can actually make you look thinner — if you know how to use them.

Some caveats and considerations

Before I list ways to create and avoid lines, it’s important to mention that there are other factors aside from placement.

Why color is just as important

Changing the color of horizontals can sometimes also change their effect completely. So remember, darker colors tend to make things look smaller than lighter colors. Therefore, a large black horizontal band might be very thinning. At the very least, using horizontals in darker or similar colors will help negate their effect.

Watch the width

The width of lines is also important. The wider a horizontal band is vertically, the more widening it tends to be. For a great example, check out the dresses shown here at Let’s Talk Shop.

Vertical stripes that are too wide can also start to work as horizontals. Vertical lines that are thin and placed close together can also work like horizontals, so avoid any stripes that make your eyes want to cross.

Be picky with patterns

While patterns can be great for disguising your shape, watch for hidden horizontals. Obviously, plaids can have a lot of horizontal lines unless they’re turned at an angle, though sometimes they’re balanced out by the vertical lines. However, even something as innocent looking as a floral pattern can have a hidden horizontal. If I’m unsure about a pattern, I take another look at it with my eyes squinted just a bit to see what kind of lines the pattern forms.

What about diagonal lines?

Simply put, if it’s more vertical than horizontal, then it works more like a vertical line — or vice versa. Just watch the angle. This is one reason why wrap dresses and asymmetrical skirts can be very slimming.

How to negate horizontals

If you love horizontals in all the wrong places, don’t despair: every rule has a loophole. Remember that color is important and can change the effect. Opt for horizontals in the same color to disguise them, lighter colors to emphasize the area, and darker colors to make areas look smaller. Also, don’t forget that you can use horizontals elsewhere for balance, like complementing a low-slung belt with an off the shoulder top.

Stay tuned

Looking for ideas on how you can use vertical and horizontal lines? You’re in luck, because in upcoming posts I’ll show you real examples that you can use.

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